First introduced in 1932, the Calatrava Reference 96 stands as the foundational cornerstone of modern wristwatch design. Born from the minimalist principles of the Bauhaus movement, where "form follows function," the Reference 96 defined the aesthetic blueprint of the classic dress watch: a pure round case, clean architecture, and timeless elegance.
This piece is an exceedingly rare third-series iteration featuring the Caliber 12-400. What truly makes this watch a collector's dream is its double-signed dial, co-branded with the prestigious Swiss retailer Gubelin. Double-named Patek Philippe timepieces represent a minute fraction of historical production, making this heavily documented piece—complete with its original 1961 Certificat d'Origine et de Garantie from the Henry Stern Watch Agency—a trophy for the serious collector.
The watch is housed in a classic 31 mm 18k yellow gold case (or jaune 18 carats) defined by its smooth, seamlessly integrated lugs. At its heart beats the manual-wind Caliber 12-400, an 18-ruby movement, finished with traditional Côtes de Genève and adjusted across temperatures and positions.
The satin-finished silver dial (d'argent satiné) serves as a pristine backdrop for faceted 18k gold applied markers (heures relief or lapidées), sharp hands, and a small seconds sub-dial at the 6 o'clock position. Placed discreetly above this sub-seconds register is the co-branded "GUBELIN" retailer signature, signifying its original delivery through Gubelin’s Zurich boutique.
Fitted to a period-correct integrated mesh bracelet in 10k yellow gold, the timepiece is accompanied by its original Patek Philippe Certificate dated June 1961.
The third series of the Reference 96 represents the technical pinnacle of the reference, powered by the renowned Caliber 12-400—a movement celebrated for its reliability, refined bridge architecture, and exceptional hand-finishing. This was the first watch that was released after the Stern family acquired the Patek Philippe company.
Visually, the double-signed dial from this era is exceptionally scarce; the presence of the Gubelin name marks a historic partnership between Patek Philippe and Europe’s premier fine jeweller. Preserved in 18k yellow gold and accompanied by
- Original certificate
- Original Gubelin box
- Original cleaning cloth
This Reference 96 is far more than a vintage timepiece—it is a landmark piece of horological history.